|(Americans can probably find this guy in the "50% off bargain bin" of your FLGS like I did, since no one actually plays the Hobbit in the U.S.)|
I opened it up and found myself faced with thirty-six little goblins to paint.
|Oh for the love of... GANDALF!|
Why, you DIP 'EM, of course!
|Dipping minis is perfect for giving a horde of models a decent tabletop-ready look without using up a lot of your precious painting time.|
I took pictures at each step of my painting process I did for these guys this morning and am posting up a quick-n-dirty tutorial, to help others get their hordes of goblins or skeletons or whatever done and off the painting table.
If you've never heard of the "dipping" technique to speed up your mini painting, then this post is for you!
First things first. If you're going to dip your minis, then you'll likely want to prime them white. Don't worry, the dip will fill in the cracks and forgive any missed parts much like priming with black usually does. However if you prime black and then dip them the minis will just be too darn dark to look good overall. So prime these guys white.
|Maybe I can just stop here...goblin ghost legion?|
Next I do the skin. Now, I already knew I didn't like the 'fish underbelly' skin tone that the Hobbit movie used for the Cave Goblins. In my thinking, all goblins are green. They could be different shades of green, sure, but green all the same. Since I'll be dipping these guys I went with a lighter color green, as the dip will darken them up. Here I used pleasant-sounding "meadow green," but any green you got will do. Just be aware that the dip makes everyone one shade darker.
Now I do the hair. Goblins are gross, and I figure they have stringy gray hair. So I painted the hair gray. Done and done.
Next the weapons. There are basically three choices for color when faced with a weapon: Is the dangerous part of the weapon wood, metal, or bone? Then you have to do the same coloring decision for the handle or hilt of the weapon. For this guy I decided he had a bone sword with a wood (or leather-wrapped) handle/hilt. So I painted the blade "Tusk Ivory," which is basically "off-white" or a "bone" color.
Then I painted the handle brown since I wanted to differentiate it from the blade.
Now it was time FOR THE DIP!
|Army painter Soft Tone Quickshade is my dip of choice.|
|Just dunk him on in there.|
|Yup, just lower them down into the box and give 'em a vigorous shake.|
|*shake shake shake!*|
|Already looking better (and hiding any sloppy mistakes)!|
|Dry and ready for last details.|
So I then dabbed the teeth and eyeball areas with the white/bone color paint.
|White eyes and teeth to lighten them up and make them stick out.|
|They had red eyes!|
|Yeah, you can't even tell at tabletop distance.|
|I see you! Rarrrrgh!|
|This really isn't an Army Painter commercial, you can use any matte varnish.|
|A very light coat allows for a little shine to remain. Too much matte varnish over-dulls the effect.|
|Ready to base!|
The total time I actually spent on this guy (minus allowing the dip to dry for two hours) is about ten minutes of actual painting, and that was with taking pictures. So you can see how this is actually a pretty fast process. After these goblins I've got a grip of skeletons that are long-overdue for some paint, and I think dipping them will be just the right answer!
Paint on everyone!